This is what heaven looks like, btw.

vogue:

NOSTALGIA: A Look Back at Last Year’s Costume Institute Gala Celebrating the Metropolitan Museum of Art Exhibition “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” with Florence and the Machine

Vogue.com will be streaming red carpet arrivals at this year’s gala live on May 7th starting at 6:30PM.

Finally getting to devour this in person.

PFW Fall 2012: The Favorites (and therefore, the best)

Once again we’ve come to the end.  My favorites this go round were a bit surprising to me, or maybe it’s more that some of my usual favorites were surprisingly disappointing?  Either way here they are:

1. Dries Van Noten

Okay so this one isn’t surprising.  I would take a lot for me to not like a Dries show and this one did not disappoint. Dries used Chinese, Japanese, and Korean iconography as reference points by going thru museum archives and photographing kimonos and dragon robes laid flat.  And in keeping with being one of the designers best using the digital age to their advantage, the images were then digitally printed onto various fabrics to then be cut into a fresh manner for wearing.  The coats and jackets were beautiful and my favorite part along with the shoes, many of which had a tortoise shell cap toe and heel.  Dries even slipped in an offering for the army parka trend which knocks all others down. This collection has been continuously growing on me since I first saw it and I think it’s a great indication of its power when the story stays with you and makes you keep thinking instead of just saying it was a lovely show and moving on.  

2. Stella McCartney

This is my favorite McCartney RTW collection in a bit, the past couple of Resort ones have been awesome otherwise.  Vibrant blue has been on the radar for the past few seasons now and I love that it was all over the place this go around.  It’s hard to say who used it best but McCartney is definitely a contender.  Tailoring, as always, is a strong point here but there was also a slight slouch in some of the fits (above) for a relaxed look.  Many of the looks were embroidered with botanical details, perhaps the best was a crisp white button down with blue embroidering on the upper arm and sides of the waist along with white embroidering across the breastplate.  Along with the blue, was  hot pink in the form of more relaxed fit pants coupled with brown tweed jackets, one bomber, one trench.  It was all very cool and covetable, and I’m sure we’re going to see it a lot of it all over the place in no time.

3. Carven

The above look won me right away.  Every look bearing this print won me.  Then there was the oversized black sweater and blood red eyelet cut out skirt, the asymmetrical rain trenchish button up dress, and the structured blue with mini shoulder wing dress.  I could go on but I’d end up describing every piece in the collection and really, you’re eyes should just direct themselves to the photographs instead.  Guillaume Henry played with modesty in some ways (high necklines and fuller hips), apparently prints were influenced by Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights, but the short hemlines and bodice slits kept things even.  As Style.com’s Nicole Phelps points out though, one thing that would’ve been nice..perhaps a pair of pants.  (Which I bet would’ve been amazing.)   

4. Vionnet

Barbara and Lucia Croce have taken over at Vionnet and after this collection, I look forward to what’s next.  The clothes took a decidedly more serious turn and felt accessible to lots of age groups or perhaps it’s more to do with the wearer’s sophistication.  There seemed to be a continuous play of soft and structured, which I love.  The above look is a fine example of this.  Reds and blues were the main colors among black, cream, and tan, all used very smartly.  Among the evening looks were two particular standouts: a flowing red dress in all it’s minimalistic glory that very subtly went sheer past a certain point, and a black and white dress whose top had been designed to almost look like it was black tie ready.  I’m definitely anticipating more. 

5. Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati said goodbye with warrior women.  Hopefully he will have a more positive stay at his next destination, one where he doesn’t seem to be under the constant stress of determined failure, but for now this was a strong farewell.  The chain mail components were the best part of the collection for me.  The dresses and skirts were cut perfectly- the back of this green one is beautiful.  Also, the color choices softened them just enough to make them feel current and not painfully outdated.  But the chain mail could also be seen detailing many other pieces.  Many of the black fabric dresses had collars, straps, or lining of it.  Another wonderful (and ironic) detail was Pilati’s use of Calla Lilies. They are the Roman symbol of lust, and ironically, the flower of choice to lay on a grave of those who suffered an untimely death.  Pilati embroidered them on various pieces in white, purple, and black.  When it came to the rubber (who knew?) numbers, there was one that had the flowers dramatically embossed all over.  Pilati is so talented when he has a rich and full idea to play with, and hopefully wherever he goes next, they will see his value and support him. 

6. Alexander McQueen

When I finished looking at the collection the first time, I messaged a friend the link and said “Blade Runner Mongolian winter warrior princess..yaaaadiiig?” …She wrote back saying she thought I’d hit the nail on the head, and I’d like to think I did.  Burton told a story of a future full of lightness versus the dark apocalyptic version we are always told about.  This also served as a parallel to the future of McQueen in Burton’s hands, as she said “I pushed myself more…It has to move forward”.  The progression of the clothes, in color (going from whites and light shades to vibrant red and black) and design (simple isn’t the right word, but more structured and “straightforward” to the explosive organza pieces), mirrored this mindset, too.  This was a demonstration of Burton’s art technique and an almost painful look at her obsessive detailing (two essentials of McQueen), that really went for it.  Like when the man himself was still designing, everything was for the show moment itself and the pieces for selling would be dealt with later.  

Honorable Mentions

Vivienne Westwood

This was classic Westwood, and oh so awesome.  From the plaid to the fairytale princess elements, it really was a wonderful sight.  The above dress stole my heart, too.

Haider Ackermann

I was sad that I wasn’t breath taken with Ackermann, as you all know I love him to death.  This collection though, was a great example of that even when it’s not his best, it’s still really great.  What kept this from being a favorite was that a good portion of it felt a tad leftover from last fall’s collection, and after the glorious spring show that was a letdown feeling.  However, there were some beautiful pieces, naturally.  One of them was the first time I’ve been on board with the burnt orange trend- a boxy jacket paired with impeccably tailored high waisted grey pants.  

Goodbye Fall 2012 shows! 

(Source: style.com)

Details at Alexander McQueen Fall 2012 Collection

(Source: style.com)

Alexander McQueen Fall 2012 Collection

(Source: style.com)

Photo Wall at style.com giving peeks at Alexander McQueen Fall 2012 

teasing is rude, but in this instance, welcomed.

(Source: style.com)

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012, Interview March 2012, by Fabien Baron and David Burton

Read the interview with Sarah Burton here

2012 Oscar Favorites (aka: In which Tilda Swinton and Cate Blanchett are sorely missed.)

Everyone, for the most part, looked quite good.  That doesn’t mean any minds were blown over the fashion but there were pretty things to look at and a couple of risks (in the context of the red carpet of red carpets where Cate Blanchett lands on the worst dressed lists for wearing Givenchy Couture). With that said we must keep in mind that some of our more fashion forward women were not present, and that there were some really beautiful dresses to be seen.  Also, I think Michelle Williams was my favorite of the night. 

(Ellie Kemper in Armani Privé, Kristen Wiig in J. Mendel, Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton)

(Penélope Cruz in Armani Privé, Octavia Spencer in Tadashi Shoji, Bérénice Bejo in Elie Saab)

(Leslie Mann in Roberto Cavalli, Jessica Chastain in Alexander McQueen, Glenn Close in Zac Posen)

(Because Gary Oldman in Paul Smith wins. Polka dots indeed!)

(Source: thecut.com)

Wang Xiao for Harper’s Bazaar Singapore March 2012

The variety of ways this collection is being shot is so great.

(Source: bobbyphongsa)

suicideblonde:

Daria Werbowy photographed by David Sims for Vogue Paris, March 2012

Alexander McQueen (March 17, 1969 - February 11, 2010), by David Bailey

Image taken by me from the catalogue of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 

[Flash 9 is required to listen to audio.]

Handel - Sarabande 

This is always floating around in my head, particularly tonight, as we enter upon the anniversary of Alexander McQueen’s death.  It gives me chills every time, and at the same time I feel like I’m the most powerful woman in a suspenseful period drama; utterly exposed while full of confidence..which I believe is the essence of McQueen.  It’s hard to believe it’s already been two years since his departure from the world, however, he left behind so many pieces of his genius that will forever live among us.  Never will there be another quite like him; Long Live McQueen.

(Source: youtube.com)

spinningbirdkick:

Solve Sundsbo / Love Magazine Spring 2012.

Zuzanna Bijoch for Alexander McQueen Spring 2012, by David Sims

(Source: fashioncopious.typepad.com)